Objective. Students will cut, fold, and assemble a complete rectangular duct section with Pittsburgh lock seams and drive-cleat cross-joints that are square, tight, and free of sharp external edges.
This lesson, its worked examples and its practice questions has not yet been verified by a licensed professional engineer or master tradesperson or by a certification or approval body. It is a study draft and may contain errors. Do not use it as instructions for work on a job site or on live equipment. Always follow your instructor, your supervising professional, and current official references and regulations.
VoTechWorks program approval and accreditation are still in progress. Credentials are issued only by the certifying bodies named in each program, after their own exams.
Fabricating a rectangular duct section by hand is a core HVAC/R skill. In this lab you will take the scribed blank from Lesson 4 and turn it into a finished duct piece complete with Pittsburgh lock seams and drive-cleat cross-joints. Work carefully: every cut and fold affects fit, airflow, and installation time on the job.
Sheet-metal edges are razor-sharp from the moment a shear or snip touches them. Wear heavy leather or cut-resistant gloves throughout this lab — no exceptions. Safety glasses must be on before the first cut and stay on until you leave the workbench. Never reach over or behind a blade on the shear. Keep fingers clear of the throat of the notcher. When closing a Pittsburgh seam with a mallet, keep your free hand on the side of the duct, not in the seam path. File or deburr every exposed edge before handling without gloves, and before the instructor inspection: a single sharp external edge is an automatic rework.
Hand shear / bench-top shear — makes long straight cuts. The bench-top shear handles thicker gauges with less effort and gives a cleaner edge. Use it for your main cross-cuts.
Hand notcher — removes a small square of metal at each corner so the folded flanges do not overlap and bind.
Pittsburgh lock former — a specialized roll-forming machine that creates the male and female profiles of the Pittsburgh seam along the long edges of the blank.
Cornice brake — bends the duct body into its rectangular shape. The brake's clamping beam holds the metal while the apron folds it to the desired angle.
Drive-cleat bender — forms the S-shaped or drive-cleat strip used to join duct sections end to end.
Dead-blow mallet — the weighted, non-rebounding head seats the Pittsburgh seam without denting the duct face.
Framing square and steel rule — verify squareness and dimensions at every stage.
The Pittsburgh seam is the industry-standard longitudinal seam for rectangular ductwork. One long edge of the blank is formed into a pocket (the female side) and the opposite long edge is formed into a flat tab (the male side). After the duct body is folded on the brake, the tab slides into the pocket and is driven closed with a mallet. A properly closed Pittsburgh seam has no visible gap greater than 1/16 inch and lies flat without a ridge that could catch air or create turbulence.
The lock former produces the pocket in one pass. Feed the blank edge squarely into the machine, hold steady lateral pressure, and keep a consistent feed rate. Rushing causes the pocket to collapse or flare. The opposite edge receives a simple hem or flat tab — follow your instructor's demonstration for the exact profile your machine produces.
1. Cut the blank. Align your scribed lines with the shear blade. Make cross-cuts first, then rip cuts. After each cut, immediately place the piece on the bench with cut edges away from you and your partner.
2. Notch the corners. Use the hand notcher to remove the corner squares you marked during layout. Accurate notching prevents corner bunching when you fold.
3. Form the Pittsburgh edges. Run both long edges through the Pittsburgh lock former per the instructor's sequence — pocket edge first, then tab edge. Inspect each edge before moving on.
4. Fold the duct body. Set the cornice brake for 90-degree bends. Fold in sequence — typically the two short sides first, then the remaining two — so the brake can reach each bend line. After each fold, check the corner with your framing square.
5. Close the seam. Hook the tab into the pocket. Starting at one end, drive the seam closed along its length with the dead-blow mallet, working in short overlapping strokes. Check the seam gap with a rule; it must be 1/16 inch or less.
6. Attach drive cleats. Slide a pre-formed drive cleat onto each open end of the duct. The cleat must seat fully against the flange on both sides. Tap lightly with the mallet if needed.
7. Connect and inspect. Slide the pre-made mating section into the drive cleats. Check the assembled joint for squareness and seam tightness by feel and by framing-square check at each corner.
8. Deburr all exposed edges. Run a file along every external cut edge. The inspector will fail any sharp edge immediately.
A duct that is out of square will not align with fittings in the field. It creates gaps at connections that bypass insulation, allow conditioned air to escape into unconditioned spaces, and reduce system efficiency. The 1/16-inch tolerances used in this lab reflect real shop and field standards for commercial ductwork quality.
Drive cleats are one of the fastest cross-joint methods for straight rectangular duct runs. The cleat is formed with two flanges: one slides over each duct end, locking them together. Proper seating requires that the duct ends are square and that the cleat length matches the duct perimeter closely. A cleat that is too short will not close; one that is too long will buckle. Always inspect the assembled joint with your hand — if you can feel a step or gap, the joint needs adjustment before the inspector sees it.
Answer each question, then check it. Nothing is recorded; this is your own practice.
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