BLD-PLUM06-05 · Lesson 5 · 13 clock hours · lab
Lavatories: Wall-Hung, Vanity, and Vessel Types
Objective. Students will install a P-trap and drain assembly, set at least two lavatory types (drop-in vanity and wall-hung), and connect hot and cold supplies with properly oriented angle stops.
Lavatories: Wall-Hung, Vanity, and Vessel Types
A lavatory is any plumbing fixture designed for handwashing. The three types you will encounter most in residential and light commercial work are the drop-in (vanity), wall-hung, and vessel lavatory. Each type shares the same basic drain and supply connections, but differs in how it is supported and how it seals to the surrounding surface.
Types of Lavatories
Drop-in (self-rimming) lavatory: The basin drops into a hole cut in a vanity top. The rim rests on the countertop surface and is sealed with plumber's putty or silicone caulk, depending on the countertop material. Silicone is preferred on stone and solid-surface tops because putty can stain them. Drop-in lavatories are popular in residential bathrooms because they are straightforward to install and easy to replace.
Wall-hung lavatory: This fixture mounts on a carrier or hanger bracket that is fastened directly to wall framing or a steel carrier frame built into the wall. The fixture bears its full load — including the weight of a person leaning on it — through that bracket. Proper blocking or carrier installation during rough-in is essential; a poorly supported wall-hung lavatory is a falling hazard. Wall-hung fixtures are common in commercial restrooms and ADA-accessible installations because the open space beneath them allows wheelchair approach.
Vessel lavatory: The basin sits on top of the counter rather than dropping into it. The drain opening in the counter must align with the vessel drain fitting. Because the basin rim is elevated, the faucet must be tall enough to clear it. Vessel lavatories are a design choice seen in higher-end residential work.
This lab focuses on the drop-in and wall-hung types.
The Pop-Up Drain Assembly
Most lavatories use a pop-up drain rather than a simple strainer. The assembly consists of:
- Drain body (tailpiece extension): Threads into or seats in the drain hole of the lavatory.
- Pop-up stopper: Sits in the drain opening; a slot or hole on its side engages the pivot rod.
- Pivot rod: Passes through the drain body horizontally; its ball seats in a socket on the drain body and its tip fits into the stopper slot.
- Clevis strap: A slotted metal strip connected to the pivot rod at the bottom and to the lift rod at the top.
- Lift rod: The knob that passes through the faucet body. Pushing it down raises the stopper; pulling it up lowers the stopper.
Adjustment is made by moving the pivot rod to a different hole in the clevis strap (changes the range of stopper travel) and by loosening the clevis screw to slide the strap up or down relative to the lift rod (changes the resting position). Always test by filling the basin partway and confirming the stopper holds water before completing the installation.
The P-Trap and Drain Connection
Every lavatory requires a trap to prevent sewer gas from entering the building. For lavatories, a 1-1/4 in. P-trap is standard (some jurisdictions accept 1-1/2 in.; verify local code). The trap has two functional requirements:
1. Trap seal: Water must remain in the curved section — typically a minimum depth of 2 inches — to block gas. After installation, fill the basin and let it drain; water retained in the trap confirms the seal.
2. Trap arm slope: The horizontal arm running from the trap outlet to the drain stub-out must slope downward toward the drain. A slight downward pitch — commonly stated as 1/4 inch per foot — prevents standing water in the arm while keeping enough slope to self-clean. A trap arm that runs uphill can lose its seal; one that drops too steeply can siphon the trap dry.
Connect the trap with slip-joint nuts and washers. Hand-tighten, then snug with pliers — do not over-torque plastic fittings.
Angle Stops and Supply Risers
Angle stops (also called angle supply valves) are the shutoff valves installed at the wall or floor stub-outs beneath the lavatory. The inlet typically connects to a 1/2 in. IPS or compression fitting on the supply stub-out; the outlet accepts the supply riser. Hot supply is connected to the left angle stop and cold to the right when facing the fixture — this is standard trade practice and aligns with faucet port orientation. Always verify that both angle stops close fully before starting work, and open them slowly when testing to avoid water hammer.
Supply risers run from the angle stop outlet to the faucet inlet shanks beneath the lavatory. Braided stainless-steel flexible risers are common in finish work. Use a basin wrench to reach and tighten the mounting nut and supply connections in the confined space behind the drain.
Wall-Hung Lavatory Installation
Before the wall is closed during rough-in, the carrier bracket or steel carrier frame must be set at the correct mounting height. For a standard installation, the rim of the lavatory is typically set at a height suited to the user; ADA guidelines specify a maximum rim height for accessible fixtures — consult the applicable standard for the project. Secure the carrier to solid framing or blocking. When hanging the lavatory, confirm it is level both front-to-back and side-to-side before making any connections.
Safety
- Wear safety glasses and nitrile gloves throughout the lab. Plumber's putty and pipe-joint compounds can irritate skin; gloves protect against sharp edges on fixture hardware.
- Before connecting supplies, confirm angle stops are closed and the water source is isolated.
- When handling a wall-hung lavatory, use a partner — these fixtures are heavy and awkward; a dropped fixture can cause serious foot injury.
- Inspect all plastic trap and riser fittings for cracks before assembly. A cracked fitting will fail under water pressure.
- Clean up spilled water immediately to prevent slip hazards.
Pass Criteria
Your lab is complete when: all supply and drain joints are dry after a full fill-and-drain test; the pop-up stopper opens and closes through its full range; a visible trap seal is present; and the trap arm slopes toward the drain. All four criteria must be met.
Key terms10
LavatoryA plumbing fixture specifically designed for handwashing, distinguished from sinks used for other purposes.
Pop-up drain assemblyA drain mechanism consisting of a stopper, pivot rod, clevis strap, and lift rod that allows the drain to be opened or closed without a separate plug.
Pivot rodThe horizontal rod that passes through the drain body and engages the stopper slot; it translates the up-and-down motion of the lift rod into stopper movement.
Clevis strapA slotted metal strip connecting the pivot rod to the lift rod; adjusting which hole the pivot rod attaches to changes the range of stopper travel.
P-trapA curved drain fitting shaped like the letter P that retains a water seal to block sewer gases from entering the building through the drain.
Trap sealThe depth of water held in the curved portion of a trap after use; it acts as a barrier against sewer gas passage.
Angle stopA shutoff valve installed at the wall or floor supply stub-out beneath a fixture; it allows the fixture to be isolated for service without shutting off the whole system.
Basin wrenchA long-handled plumbing tool with a pivoting jaw designed to reach and tighten nuts in the confined space behind and above a lavatory basin.
Carrier (hanger bracket)A steel support frame or bracket fastened to wall framing that bears the full weight and load of a wall-hung lavatory.
Trap arm slopeThe downward pitch of the horizontal pipe section between the trap outlet and the drain stub-out; proper slope ensures drainage without siphoning the trap.
Worked examples4
1. The drain stub-out center is 14 inches from the finished wall. The trap arm must travel that 14 inches horizontally to reach it. What is the maximum drop (in inches) allowed if you apply a slope of 1/4 inch per foot across that run?
- Convert the run to feet: 14 in ÷ 12 in/ft = 1.167 ft
- Multiply by the slope rate: 1.167 ft × 0.25 in/ft = 0.292 in
- Round to a practical measurement: approximately 5/16 in of drop over the 14-inch run.
Answer: The trap arm should drop approximately 5/16 inch (about 0.29 inch) over its 14-inch horizontal run at 1/4 inch per foot slope.
2. You are setting a wall-hung lavatory carrier. The rough-in sheet calls for the drain centerline to be 17 inches above the finished floor. The lavatory drain outlet sits 5-1/2 inches below the rim of the basin. Where should the top of the carrier bracket be set (at rim height) above the finished floor?
- Rim height = drain centerline height + distance from drain outlet to rim
- Rim height = 17 in + 5.5 in = 22.5 in above finished floor
- Mark the wall at 22-1/2 inches above the finished floor for the top of the carrier bracket (verify against manufacturer's template).
Answer: Set the top of the carrier bracket at 22-1/2 inches above the finished floor so the rim lands at the correct height.
3. Your supply riser is 12 inches long (measured from angle-stop outlet to faucet shank nut). The angle-stop outlet measures 4-3/4 inches above the finished floor. The faucet shank nut is located how many inches above the floor?
- Add the riser length to the angle-stop outlet height: 4.75 in + 12 in = 16.75 in
- The faucet shank connection is 16-3/4 inches above the finished floor.
- Compare this to the vanity cabinet interior clearance to confirm the riser fits without kinking.
Answer: The faucet shank nut connection is located 16-3/4 inches above the finished floor.
4. A P-trap requires a minimum 2-inch trap seal. After testing, you measure only 1-1/4 inches of water in the trap. The trap arm runs slightly uphill toward the drain stub-out. Why is the seal low and how do you correct it?
- An uphill trap arm creates a partial siphon condition — as water drains, the uphill pitch pulls water out of the trap curve.
- Loosen the slip-joint nut at the drain stub-out connection and re-angle the trap arm so it pitches downward at approximately 1/4 inch per foot toward the stub-out.
- Re-tighten the slip-joint nut and re-test by filling the basin and draining; measure the trap seal again to confirm it meets the minimum depth.
Answer: The uphill trap arm was siphoning the seal low. Correcting the arm to slope downward toward the drain at 1/4 inch per foot restores a full trap seal of at least 2 inches.
The math in this lesson2
Learners compute maximum trap arm drop at ¼ inch per foot over 14 inches.
6.RP.37.NS.3
In class: Instructor demo: assemble a pop-up drain mechanism from parts, explain how the pivot rod and clevis strap adjust stopper travel, then set a drop-in lavatory in a vanity top and make all connections. · Students assemble and adjust a pop-up drain on a lavatory mounted in a practice vanity, connect the P-trap to a stubbed-out ABS drain, and connect supply risers to pre-installed angle stops; they verify drain slope and trap seal depth. · Students then mount a wall-hung lavatory on a carrier or hanger bracket in a mock wall assembly, connect drain and supplies, and fill the basin to the overflow to test the pop-up stopper and check for leaks at all joints.
Materials: Drop-in and wall-hung lavatories, vanity tops, pop-up drain assemblies, P-traps (1-1/4 in.), supply risers, angle stops, carrier/hanger brackets, pipe wrenches, basin wrench, plumber's putty, silicone caulk, caulk gun, safety glasses, nitrile gloves, lab log sheets
Check: No leaks at supply or drain joints; pop-up stopper opens and closes fully; trap seal present and trap arm slope toward drain — all criteria required to pass.
Practice check8
Answer each question, then check it. Nothing is recorded; this is your own practice.
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