Objective. Students will diagnose strut and shock absorber condition using visual inspection, bounce test, and road-force ball-park assessment, then safely disassemble a MacPherson strut assembly using a spring compressor and reassemble it with a new insert to specification.
This lesson, its worked examples and its practice questions has not yet been verified by a certified examiner or master technician in the trade or by a certification or approval body. It is a study draft and may contain errors. Do not use it as instructions for work on a job site or on live equipment. Always follow your instructor, your supervising professional, and current official references and regulations.
VoTechWorks program approval and accreditation are still in progress. Credentials are issued only by the certifying bodies named in each program, after their own exams.
Shock absorbers and struts control the rate at which a spring rebounds after a bump. Without them, the vehicle would bounce continuously. A MacPherson strut combines the shock absorber function with a structural suspension link—it also locates the wheel and carries side loads. A conventional shock absorber only dampens spring oscillation; a separate control arm handles wheel location. Both work by forcing hydraulic fluid through calibrated orifices, converting kinetic energy into heat.
Visual inspection is always first. Look for:
Four-corner bounce test: Push firmly down on each corner of the vehicle and release. A serviceable unit stops within one to one-and-a-half oscillations. More than two full bounces indicates a weak or failed damper. Document each corner separately.
Road-force and NVH clues: Clunking over bumps often points to a worn upper strut bearing plate or loose mount hardware. A vehicle that wanders or has vague steering frequently has a failed strut bearing that prevents the strut from rotating with the wheel during turning.
Record all findings on your diagnostic worksheet and in the shop management software before any disassembly.
The coil spring stores enormous potential energy — enough to cause fatal injury if released suddenly. Follow these rules without exception:
1. Select the correct compressor type. Internal (jaws that hook inside the coils) and external (hooks that wrap outside the coils) types exist; match the tool to the spring design.
2. Engage a minimum of three full coils on each compressor hook or jaw. Fewer coils allow the hook to slip under load.
3. Tighten both sides evenly. Alternate sides in small increments so the spring compresses straight and does not tilt.
4. Engage the safety locks or retainer clips on the tool before applying significant load.
5. Never place your head or body in line with the spring axis. Stand to the side.
6. Wear safety glasses and a face shield throughout compression, disassembly, and release.
7. Release tension slowly and in small increments during reassembly.
8. The instructor performs a safety check — equal thread engagement and locks confirmed — before any spring is compressed. An unsafe setup stops all work immediately; the compressor must be removed and the procedure restarted.
1. With the strut removed from the vehicle and clamped securely in a strut vise or shop press fixture, attach the spring compressor symmetrically.
2. Compress the spring until the upper strut mount can move freely — the spring must be compressed enough that it no longer pushes against the mount.
3. Hold the piston rod stationary with a rod-holding tool and remove the strut nut with the appropriate strut nut socket. Never use an impact wrench on the strut nut without holding the rod — spinning the rod damages internal valving.
4. Remove the upper strut mount, bearing plate, spring seat, dust boot and bump stop, and the spring itself. Lay parts in order on the bench.
5. Inspect the spring for cracks, corrosion pitting, and set (abnormal shortening). Measure free length if OEM specs are available and compare.
6. Inspect the upper bearing plate for roughness, corrosion, or play. Spin it by hand; it should rotate smoothly.
7. Remove the old cartridge insert according to the manufacturer's procedure — some insert into the housing, others require the entire strut tube.
Install the replacement cartridge insert and torque any retaining nut to OEM specification. Seat the lower spring isolator, then the spring (ensure the pigtail end seats fully in the lower perch), then the dust boot and bump stop, upper spring seat, bearing plate, and upper mount. Confirm mount orientation — the alignment mark or flat on the mount must face the correct direction relative to the mounting holes, or the vehicle will have incorrect steering geometry.
Compress the spring enough to start and fully thread the strut nut. Torque the strut nut to OEM specification. Release spring compressor tension slowly and evenly. With tension fully released, confirm no binding or misalignment.
After installation on the vehicle, torque all fasteners — upper mount nuts, lower strut-to-knuckle pinch bolt or nuts — to OEM values. Document all torque readings on the worksheet.
After reassembly, verify:
A four-wheel alignment check is required any time a strut is replaced, because strut height and mount orientation directly affect camber and caster.
Answer each question, then check it. Nothing is recorded; this is your own practice.
A free tech program — complimentary, as our commitment to get America working. Help us build VoTechWorks. Tell us what works, what doesn’t, and what you want to learn.