Fabric Construction: Weave, Knit, and Nonwoven Structures

Why Fabric Construction Matters in Garment Care

Fiber content tells you what a fabric is made of, but fabric construction tells you how it is put together. Construction determines how a garment behaves under heat, moisture, agitation, and tension — the four forces present in almost every cleaning process. A drycleaner or wetcleaner who misreads construction risks shrinkage, distortion, snags, or permanent damage. Identifying construction accurately is a core professional skill tested by both DLI and TRSA credentials.

Woven Fabrics

Woven fabrics are made on a loom by interlacing two sets of yarns at right angles. The lengthwise yarns are called the warp; the crosswise yarns are called the weft (or filling). The pattern in which warp and weft cross each other is the weave.

Plain Weave

In a plain weave, each weft yarn passes over one warp yarn, then under the next, alternating across the entire width. This is the simplest and most common weave. Because every yarn interlaces with its neighbor, plain-weave fabrics are firm, relatively resistant to snagging, and slow to fray. However, they have little give. When wetted and agitated, they can shrink if the yarns were under tension during weaving and are allowed to relax. Examples include muslin, percale, and most broadcloth shirting.

Twill Weave

In a twill weave, weft yarns pass over two or more warp yarns and then under one or more, with each row offset by one yarn. This creates the diagonal rib or line visible on denim, gabardine, and tweed. Twills have more yarn-to-yarn movement than plain weaves, which gives them a softer drape and greater resistance to wrinkling. The diagonal float structure also makes the surface slightly more susceptible to abrasion from tumbling or mechanical brushing. A 2×2 twill means the weft floats over two warps and under two, producing a balanced diagonal. Shrinkage risk is moderate — higher than a tight plain weave but lower than a knit.

Satin Weave

In a satin weave, weft yarns float over four or more warp yarns before interlacing, creating long, smooth floats on the fabric face. The result is the lustrous surface seen on charmeuse and satin-faced fabrics. Because of those long floats, satin-weave fabrics snag and abrade very easily and require gentle mechanical action — typically short drycleaning cycles or delicate wetcleaning programs. Shrinkage risk is low to moderate, but the risk of surface damage from agitation is high.

Knit Fabrics

Knit fabrics are constructed from interlocking loops of yarn rather than two perpendicular sets. Loops give knits inherent stretch in multiple directions, which is why a T-shirt moves with the body. That same stretch makes knits vulnerable to progressive distortion — stretching beyond recovery — when handled carelessly on a conveyor, a hanger, or in an overloaded drum.

Single Knit (Jersey)

A single-knit, often called jersey, is made on one set of needles and has a distinct face (smooth V-shaped loops) and back (horizontal purl bumps). Jersey is lightweight and stretchy. Because of open loop structure and minimal yarn interlacing, jersey has high shrinkage risk when tumbled wet. It also curls at cut edges. Wetcleaning programs for jersey use cool water, low agitation, and controlled drying to minimize relaxation shrinkage.

Double Knit

A double-knit is made on two needle beds, interknitting two layers into one stable fabric. The fabric looks similar on both faces, has firmer body, and stretches less than jersey. Shrinkage risk is medium — better dimensional stability than single knit, but still greater than most wovens.

Rib Knit

Rib knits have alternating columns of face and back stitches, producing the distinctive vertical ridges on cuffs and waistbands. They have exceptional lateral (crosswise) stretch and recovery. Handle rib trims carefully during pressing to avoid stretching them permanently.

Fleece

Fleece is a knit base fabric that has been brushed or napped to raise a soft pile on one or both surfaces. The brushed fibers snag and pill under rough mechanical action. Avoid high-temperature drying, which can melt synthetic fleece fibers or cause irreversible matting.

Nonwoven Fabrics

Nonwovens are made by bonding or entangling fibers mechanically, thermally, or chemically — no yarn spinning and no interlacing or looping. Because there is no yarn structure to unravel, nonwovens do not fray, but they also have little elasticity and can tear along stress lines.

Fusible Nonwoven (Interfacing)

Fusible nonwovens are bonded with a heat-activated adhesive and are used as garment interfacing in collars, cufts, and waistbands. They are almost never the outer fabric; they are hidden inside the garment. Solvent or hot water can dissolve or delaminate the adhesive, causing bubbling or separation. Always check care labels and test a hidden area before cleaning structured garments.

Needle-Punched Nonwoven

Needle-punched fabrics are made by repeatedly driving barbed needles through a fiber batt, mechanically entangling the fibers. They are durable and used in industrial wiping cloths, automotive liners, and some craft felts. They tolerate moderate agitation but can thin or distort under heavy mechanical stress.

Safety Notes

When using loupes or handheld microscopes, keep the work surface clear and stable to avoid dropping glass optics. When performing wet-stretch demonstrations, use room-temperature water; hot water near electrical equipment or open samples creates a slip and burn hazard. Keep spray bottles labeled and away from any chemical storage area to prevent cross-contamination. Wear appropriate PPE — safety glasses are recommended whenever you are working near chemical solvents in the shop, even during identification exercises conducted near solvent-using equipment.